The wave of leadership changes across luxury fashion houses continues. Christian Dior Couture has officially announced the departure of Maria Grazia Chiuri, its artistic director for women’s collections. The news comes just one day after Dior’s latest runway show in Rome, ending months of speculation about her planned exit. Since taking the reins in July 2016, the Italian designer has led Dior’s women’s ready-to-wear, haute couture, and accessories lines. Known for her feminist perspective, Chiuri played a key role in revitalizing the flagship LVMH brand. Between 2018 and 2023, Dior’s revenue quadrupled under her direction.

This announcement follows Dior’s earlier confirmation in January of the exit of British designer Kim Jones, who led Dior Men for seven years. Jonathan Anderson, formerly creative director at Loewe, another LVMH label, replaced him in April. Earlier this year, speculation circulated that the Irish designer might also assume creative leadership of Dior’s women’s lines.

Chiuri’s next professional chapter remains unclear. She was previously rumored to be in discussions to lead Fendi’s women’s collections, though those talks now appear unlikely to move forward.

Born to a seamstress who ran a small atelier, Chiuri has long been drawn to fashion. Now 61, she studied at the Istituto Europeo di Design in Rome and began her career at Fendi, an LVMH brand, in 1989. There, she focused on handbag design and contributed to creating the iconic Baguette—one of the defining “it bags” of the 1990s.

Chiuri’s career took off when she partnered with longtime collaborator Pierpaolo Piccioli. The pair caught the eye of Valentino Garavani and, in 1999, were entrusted with designing accessories for Valentino. Following the brand’s acquisition by investment firm Permira in 2007 and the retirement of its founder, Chiuri and Piccioli stepped into the roles of co-creative directors for accessories. By late 2008, they were promoted to oversee all of Valentino’s fashion collections. Their tenure saw the rise of the Rockstud pump, which became a global sensation.

Under their leadership, Valentino experienced renewed energy, capturing the attention of younger consumers and gaining critical acclaim. When Qatari investment firm Mayhoola acquired the brand in 2012, Chiuri and Piccioli continued modernizing the house. By 2015, Valentino was nearing €1 billion in annual revenue.

In 2016, Chiuri made history as the first woman appointed as artistic director of Dior. From her debut, she used fashion as a vehicle for feminist expression. Her runway shows regularly featured bold slogans such as “We Should All Be Feminists” and “Sisterhood Is Powerful.”

While honoring Dior’s storied heritage, Chiuri infused the brand with a contemporary edge, designing refined, wearable pieces that resonated with younger audiences. As she explained after her first show, her mission was “to be attuned to the world and to create fashion that reflects today’s women. Fashion that supports them through change, helping them break free from stereotypes.”

In 2019, Chiuri received the title of Chevalier of the French Legion of Honor—one of several accolades that mark her influential career.

Author Credits- Dominique Muret
FASHION NETWORK